10 things to see and do in Tokyo now

The pandemic may have brought temporary change and uncertainty to how things are done in Tokyo, but the city still pulses with energy, radiating off the glass skyscrapers that tower over its CBDs, zipping across the narrow alleyways of Shibuya and Shinjuku, and leaping from rooftop gardens to bustling neighborhood joints.

Tokyo has emerged from an extended lockdown full of hope, benefiting from the presence of new developments and the promise of a tourist influx. Now that Japan has reopened its borders, albeit in a gradual scheme, its capital city is more than eager to please. Here’s what to check out. 

1. Explore Shimokitazawa

Known for its bohemian vibes, indie art and music scene, eclectic cafes, and stores brimming with pre-loved fashion, Shimokitazawa — locals refer to the neighborhood as Shimokita — witnessed a development boom during the pandemic. The area has become even more popular for fashionable Japanese youth with the addition of trendy commercial space Reload Shimokita, the achingly hip Mustard Hotel, and pet-friendly al fresco hangout area Shimokita Senrogai Akichi. Like attracts like, and the presence of these new establishments means more specialist coffee shops, cool izakayas, and niche boutiques are coming to the neighborhood.

Shimokita is also home to an officially recognized Studio Ghibli cafe called Tolo Coffee & Bakery, where you can buy choux creams in the shape of the animation studio’s most famous character Totoro.  

2. Get lost in the world of Hayao Miyazaki at the Ghibli Museum

If you grew up with the art and animation of Hayao Miyazaki, make your way to the outskirts of central Tokyo to the Ghibli Museum. Located within Inokashira Park in Mikata, the fantastical, multi-storied mansion is the closest experience to being in one of Hayao Miyazaki’s whimsical films. Get up close and personal with familiar characters such as the robot from Castle in the Sky and Totoro himself, who mans the gate. The museum also houses a small theater that shows Ghibli shorts that were never commercially released.

Tickets are not sold on museum grounds and have to be purchased in advance via the website of JTB, Japan’s largest travel agency, or convenience store Lawson’s online ticket platform.

3. Take a breather in a lush rooftop park 

Even before the pandemic, some of Tokyo’s coolest public spaces were perched on the top of its malls and multi-use complexes. The city’s well-manicured rooftop parks and gardens have the post-COVID virtue of providing an al fresco alternative for those wanting to escape the crowd indoors, including the recently revitalized Miyashita Park, a 10,000sqm development in the heart of Shibuya. The park features a multi-purpose sports facility, skate park, and a bouldering wall. 

Another rooftop space that offers a refreshing respite, as well as 360-degree views of Central Tokyo’s skyline, is the rooftop garden at Ginza Six, one of the city’s most prestigious shopping addresses. This well-manicured 4,000sqm garden has lots of wooden decks where you can sit and read a book bought from Tsutaya bookstore located just one floor down.

4. Follow the golden ginkgo tree trail

While spring in Tokyo is focused on catching the fleeting beauty of cherry blossoms or sakura, autumn is reserved for the golden resplendence of ginkgo trees. The leaves of this towering tree turn a glowing yellow sometime mid-November, providing a blazing canopy over the city. Many ginkgo trees line Tokyo’s major thoroughfares, but they are seen in clusters at certain spots such as the main avenue of Meiji Jingu Gaien in Shinjuku and Showa Memorial Park in Akishima.

5. Be spoilt for choice at a depachinka 

Tokyo still reigns as the city with the most number of Michelin-starred restaurants. But if you’re looking for something quick and reasonably priced, head to one of the city’s many underground food halls or depachika. Mostly located in the basement floor of a department store, these high-quality prepared-food havens offer a plethora of choices, from cooked tempura to freshly sliced sashimi to delicate breads and pastries, allowing patrons to choose dishes for the ultimate feast.

Your best bets include Shibuya Tokyu Foodshow, adjacent to Shibuya Station, which lures locals and tourists alike with three zones selling fresh produce and gourmet meals; Ikebukuro Tobu, Japan’s largest depachika at 10,000sqm; and Daimaru at Tokyo Station where you can choose from approximately 1,000 types of bento meals.  

6. Treat yourself to a kaiseki meal

Treat yourself to kaiseki, a pristinely presented multi-course meal that offers a full-sensory experience. Den, voted Asia’s best restaurant in 2022, fulfills all kaiseki expectations with playful Japanese dishes with European tweaks. Daigo offers shojin ryori or Buddhist vegetarian devotional food with a modern twist in a serene environment, while Kien serves Michelin-starred fare at reasonable prices. 

7. Take a kintsugi class

Kintsugi, the Japanese practice of repairing broken pottery with gold powder-dusted lacquer, has been seen as symbolic of renewed hopes and new beginnings, and may resonate with many in these fragile post-pandemic times. A kintsugi class might just be the art-as-healing session you need. Quick workshops are offered in places such as Taku Nakano Ceramic Arts (TNCA) in Aoyama or Kuge Crafts in Suginami. 

8. Sip on Japanese craft beer

In the land of sake, whiskey and Sapporo beer, there’s still value in trying independently-made malted brews. The craft beer phenomenon has gained real traction in Tokyo over the last few years and the city is now awash with spots sellings IPAs and stouts, often with good food on hand. Try YYG Brewery, aka Yoyogi Brewery, in Shinjuku which brews Shinjuku Pale Ale, a refreshing beer with caramel notes; Shinsu Osake Mura in Shinbashi, where you can get a glass of regional brew, such as Shiga Kogen beer, for less than ¥300; or Two Fingers in Ikebukuro where you can have your pale ale with artisanal tofu.

9. Embrace the quirky — and cuddle a micro pig

Tokyo has taken animal cafés to the next level with the introduction of Mipig, home to micro pigs so tiny that they can fit in a teacup (albeit, a sizable one). Sip matcha tea as a wet-nosed piglet curls up on your lap or stumbles over your legs, squealing in glee. These friendly and odurless animals are also sold as pets — you’ll be informed that they can grow up to 40kg. They are meant to change perceptions of pigs as dirty, unlovable animals that can’t be part of a home. Mipig has two locations in Tokyo, one in Meguro and one in Harajuku. 

10. Visit the new Japan National Stadium 

The Tokyo 2020 Olympics stands unique in history for many reasons, chief among them is that it happened during a pandemic, with most national borders shut. Second, that it actually happened in 2021. Now that we’re traveling again, we can behold everything the Japanese built for a spectacular Summer Olympics, including the centerpiece stadium. Designed by Kengo Kuma, the Japan National Stadium stands as a symbol of Japan as it enters a world that prioritizes sustainability and being in harmony with the environment over extravagance. Made of concrete, steel and timber — including cedar, sourced from all 47 of Japan’s prefectures, that make up the external wall — it’s a cleverly designed, airy masterpiece. Terraces containing greenery wrap the entire stadium, allowing it to fit in with its environment at Meiji Jingu Park. Kuma also designed the stadium without air conditioning; instead, natural ventilation brings in and optimizes the wind. You don’t have to be an architectural expert to recognise the timely relevance of his design.

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