5 Thai-Chinese dishes to try in Bangkok’s Yaowarat district

When red and yellow neon signs start appearing overhead, you know you’re approaching Bangkok’s Chinatown – and you know a massive feast awaits.

In this area known to locals as Yaowarat, after the busy road that runs through its heart, Thai-Chinese food has been perfected over the centuries among a network of narrow, food stall-stuffed alleys. This is one of Bangkok’s oldest areas, and Chinese roots run deep here. 

Chinese traders landed in Bangkok in the late 18th century, first settling east of the Chao Phraya River before moving south to Yaowarat. By the mid-19th century, Teochew, Hokkien, Cantonese, Hainanese and Hakka immigrants were living among one another here, each group adding its own cultural elements to the Yaowarat melting pot. Today, the food found around Yaowarat often blends regional flavors and techniques with local ingredients, and many stalls have served their specialties for generations. 

Want to get a taste of these time-honored traditions? Here are five of our favorite Thai-Chinese dishes to try on your next visit to Yaowarat – and where to find them.

Fishballs 

No trip to Chinatown is complete without trying fishballs. These tender, springy treats are a mainstay of Thai-Chinese cuisine. Lim Lao Ngow, a Michelin-recognized shop that has been in business for more than 60 years, serves some of the best fishballs in town. Their bouncy balls are made from a family recipe that combines a mix of fresh fish – no flour added – and are served with fresh-made egg noodles. Arrive early as they often sell out. 

In front of building no. 299-301, Song Sawat Rd.; Open daily 4:30pm-8:30pm

Khao Moo Daeng 

Known as red pork rice, khao moo daeng is a street food stalwart. Basically every Asian country influenced by China has some version of caramelized Chinese char siu (roasted pork) on rice, but in Thailand, this ubiquitous dish features a deep red, sweet and savory gravy made from different kinds of soy sauce, fermented bean sauce, and five spice powder. Try it at decades-old, family-owned Srimorakot. Their version is legendary. Perfectly crisped pork meets creamy soft-boiled eggs, a generous slathering of their signature sauce, and a couple of slices of cucumber to cut the richness. While here, make sure to visit Wai Traimit, also known as the Temple of the Golden Buddha, to marvel at one of the world’s biggest solid gold Buddha statues.

80-82 Sukon Soi 1 (just southeast of Wat Traimit); Open daily 9am-4pm

Jok

Early in the morning or late at night, you’ll find locals eating jok, the Thai version of congee, which features a thicker and creamier consistency. The rice is slow-cooked until the grains break down and thicken the broth, resulting in a smooth and velvety texture. Je Muay Kia Porridge does this particularly well, explaining the constant queues the shop sees. The best way to enjoy your jok at this local institution – named after the owner – is to customize it to your taste, with toppings of pork, offal, patongko (Chinese doughnuts), fried garlic, finely sliced ginger, and more.

330/14 Sukon Soi 2 (one alley over from Srimorakot); Open Tue-Sun 4:30am-10am

Guay Jub

Also known as kuay jub or kwai chap, this Thai-Chinese staple is a peppery bowl of rolled rice noodles, crispy pork, offal, and fresh herbs and seasonings in a hearty broth. Starting in the late 1980s as a pushcart, Michelin-recognized Nai Ek Roll Noodles is an institution. Each night, lines stretch down Yaowarat for the simple but perfectly cooked guay jub, the whole scene awash in the road’s vibrant neon glow. For the perfect bite, order the crispy pork and top it all off with fresh minced garlic and coriander. 

442 Yaowarat Rd.; Open daily 8am-midnight

Yentafo 

The tangy, pink-hued noodle soup known as yentafo is the perfect mix of Chinese and Thai flavors. Combining fermented soybean paste – a very Chinese ingredient – and rice noodles with Thai chili paste and fried garlic, this emblematic dish can be found all over Yaowarat. A stone’s throw away from Chinatown, Thai Rung Rueng Yentafo on bustling Ban That Thong Road is a great place to try a standout version. Chewy vermicelli noodles pair with homemade fish balls, tender fish cakes, water spinach and more in a signature pink broth. The dish is famously mellow here, making it a good spot for those who wanting to savor the nuance. 

1154 Ban That Thong Rd. (near National Stadium); Open daily 10am-8:30pm

Ready to eat your way through Yaowarat? Fly there with Thai Airways.