A history-themed, day-to-night adventure in Manila

Not all must-see sites in the Philippines are overlaid with white sand. Sometimes they’re neatly paved with centuries-old cobblestones. Others are lit with neon lights. Most are hiding in plain sight. Metro Manila, a sprawling metropolis of 16 cities that includes the country’s capital of Manila, can seem a bit daunting and a lot to take in, but a visit to a few historic spots gives you an interesting way in to a story-filled weekend adventure.

Take a morning walk at Rizal Park
It makes sense to begin a weekend of exploring the city at this park along Manila Bay, where just across the way from the green sprawl is a discrete marble marker for Kilometer 0, the point from which all distances in the country are measured.

Rizal Park, formerly called Luneta Park, is a long promenade surrounded by lush greenery. The largest urban park in the Philippines, it was once a bustling social hub for Manila’s upperclass during the Spanish regime.

Today it draws a more diverse crowd, here for the wide, walking paths and the breathing space, as well as for photo ops at the Rizal Monument, a shrine to national hero Dr. Jose Rizal. His writings and eventual death by firing squad execution at the park in 1896 helped spark a revolution that ended over three centuries of Spanish colonial rule. About 100 meters from the monument, life-size statues on the exact spot of execution depict that pivotal scene in the country’s history.

Several paces from the Rizal Monument stands the Independence Flagpole, the country’s tallest, which marks another break from occupying forces. On this same spot in July 1946, the Philippine flag was raised, marking the end of American occupation after 48 years.

Explore Intramuros
From Rizal Park, walk over to nearby Intramuros, a historic fortress built 400 years ago as central command for the occupying Spanish forces. It also served as a safe residential enclave for families of government officials and rest of the colonial elite.

Although much of Intramuros was bombed out and razed to the ground during the Battle of Manila in the Second World War, many of its grand structures have been reconstructed. Among them is the Manila Cathedral, the country’s prime basilica, originally established in the late 1500s, and whose imposing and ornate Neo-Romanesque structure, its eighth incarnation, was completed in 1958.

Meanwhile, the Baroque-styled San Agustin Church, completed 1604, was the lone structure that miraculously survived the bombing. A UNESCO World Heritage Site, the church is open to tourists at any time, except while a mass is ongoing, during which you’re advised to keep your cameras and phones away until the service is done.

If your legs begin to protest, hop on a guided Segway tour of Fort Santiago, a centuries-old Spanish citadel that became the military headquarters of a parade of foreign armies at various points in history until World War II. Stop for a mid-morning caffeine boost at an unlikely attraction: a tiny, hidden Starbucks tucked behind the old walls.

Eat and shop your way around Chinatown
At Binondo, the world’s oldest Chinatown, established in 1594, there’s no shortage of tasty bites – from fried oyster cake at Sincerity Café along Quintin Paredes Road, to mooncakes at Eng Bee Tin flagship store in Ongpin.

A thriving commercial district along the Pasig River, just outside the walls of Intramuros, Binondo is also where you’ll find Escolta, one of the city’s oldest and most storied streets, peaking as the Wall Street of the Philippines during the American occupation. It’s a street that claims many historic firsts for the country: the first building with an elevator (Burke Building, built 1919); the first building to have air-conditioning (Crystal Arcade, completed in 1932); the first ice cream shop (Clarke’s, opened in 1908).

Largely neglected for decades – the once groundbreaking buildings abandoned for more modern spaces in newer business districts like Makati – Escolta has been anointed by Manila’s present-day cool crowd as the place to be. Discover Old Manila through historic buildings, shop for vintage items and unique finds or take a selfie with street art. Check out HUB: Make Lab — a creative incubator and retail space for artisan-made products, from apparel to homeware — at the five-story First United Building, an Art Deco masterpiece by architect Andres Luna (son of painter Juan Luna) and the tallest building in the country when it opened in 1928.

Spend afternoons touring museums
Keep away from the afternoon sun by ducking into interesting museums all over the city. The National Museum of Natural History, for instance, houses 12 permanent galleries across six floors the Philippines’ geological and biological wonders, including the remains of Lolong, the 6.17-meter crocodile from Agusan that was once the largest saltwater crocodile in captivity.

Meanwhile, Palacio de Memoria, a restored mansion along Roxas Boulevard, serves as a museum, events space, and auction house specializing in antiquities and heirlooms. Travel back to swinging pre-war Manila and book a 30-minute or one-hour guided tour. You can also explore the elegant mansion on your own — don’t forget to check out the airplanes parked in the backyard or enjoy a late lunch at The Loggia by Margarita Fores, which specializes in Filipino-Italian cuisine.

Architecture and urban planning geeks will also appreciate the El Deposito in San Juan, a decommissioned underground reservoir that once supplied water to the cities of Metro Manila. Historically, the reservoir was the site of the 1896 Battle of San Juan del Monte, regarded as the onset of the Philippine Revolution. Museo El Deposito opened in 2019, just before the pandemic, offering education tours on the city’s waterworks through parts of the reservoir.

Dine on storied classics with a twist
BGC, or Bonifacio Global City, might be one of the newer, shinier districts of the metropolis – where you’ll find malls, art galleries and other upmarket boutiques – but it’s also a great spot for tucking into classic cuisine serves a deeper appreciation of Filipino culture with every bite.

Head over to Mesa Filipino Moderne, which serves hearty Pinoy favorites like sinigang (sour soup with pork or seafood) and lechon (roasted pig). For dishes with a more contemporary twist, visit Manam Comfort Filipino and try their Corned Beef Kansi (sour tamarind soup with meat), Crispy Pancit Palabok, and House Crispy Sisig. For some drinks and pica-pica or light bites, head over to La Picara to experience Spanish food with a Filipino twist, like Seafood Escabeche.

If you have more time to spare, book a table at the acclaimed Gallery by Chele, which serves modern Philippine- and Southeast Asian-inspired cuisine. From the a la carte menu, try the Kare Kare Bonbon — small bites of beef cheeks in peanut praline served with bagoong (fish or shrimp paste) mayo. Make sure to book a table in advance.

Go on a Pob crawl
Barangay Poblacion is Makati’s first settlement and historic center, dating back centuries. But if your local host asks you to go on a Pob Crawl, they mean a boozy tour of a particular part of Poblacion, one that was once a notorious red-light district that’s now been taken over by hole-in-the-wall restaurants, bars tucked away in garages, craft beer pubs, and amazing street food lanes. There are holdovers from its previous life, of course – a grungy shopfront here and there – but that just adds to the charm of the area. If you want to witness how creativity, not to mention some seriously good craft cocktails, can change a city, spend the better part of your evening discovering that Poblacion has to offer.

At Lampara along Enriquez Street, great for cocktails and small plates, try Saging, a scrumptious twist on minatamis na saging (sweetened bananas) with grilled banana rum, seed tuile, and cream cheese. Just below it is OTO, Manila’s first listening room. Audiophiles will appreciate its well-curated selection of vinyl records and cocktail connoisseurs will find plenty to love in the drinks menu.

Over at Alamat Filipino Pub & Deli at Don Pedro Street, sample cocktails inspired by classic Filipino desserts. Try Tahoooo, a rum-based drink inspired by a snack made with silken tofu and tapioca pearls. Finally, dance the night away at Kampai, technically a restaurant that serves its own take on Japanese food, but with such an electric vibe you can’t help but dance.