The city of Hat Yai’s location near the Thai-Malaysian border and the seaside city of Songkhla has given it a strategic advantage: a century ago it became home to a major railway station connecting southern Siam – what we now call Thailand – with Bangkok. Coinciding with an influx of Chinese immigrants, Hat Yai soon grew into a regional commercial hub and, at the same time, a melting pot.
And that’s where its magic lies. Thanks to this heady fusion of different cultures, Hat Yai is today a place where diverse culinary traditions originating from China have flourished harmoniously alongside Thai and Muslim influences. This confluence of cultures means it is blessed with a huge number of dining choices – from hot dim sum fresh out of a bamboo steamer to sweet, crispy roti breads, and much more besides. There are so many unique flavors and culinary experiences to try, in fact, that a food tour here could easily last from morning through evening. Here are eight food spots to get you hungrily hopping around central Hat Yai.
Cafe Restique
Half-jungle, half-café, Cafe Restique (Tues-Sun: 07:30-17:00) offers a resort-like atmosphere complete with a mini rainforest waterfall. Guests come to relax in air-conditioned comfort by the glass window and enjoy freshly made Neapolitan pizza while taking in the lush greenery. Everything here is homemade in the onsite bakery, including the excellent pies stuffed with corn and coconut.
Location: 128 Soi Sam Phinong 2
Gotee Ocha
There’s nowhere else like Gotee Ocha (daily: 05:00-14:30) in Hat Yai: this popular local restaurant serves many kinds of food made by different cooks. Popular options include the fried doughnut with custard, the Thai-style iced coffee and the hearty Hainanese chicken rice. What also makes this place a reliable choice for breakfast is the unusual yet delicious take on Bak Kut Teh, a pork rib and broth-based dish regularly served in Malaysia and Singapore but hard to find in Thailand.
Location: 134-136 Nipatuthit 3 Road
Mun Duey
A 52-year-old ice dessert stall, Mun Duey (daily: 12:00-17:00) is beloved by passersby and train commuters. Head to the gigantic Bodhi tree near the train station to cool off with some Mun Duey: a glass mug filled with crushed ice, sweet coconut milk, job’s tears, candied pineapple, and tapioca. Don’t prejudge this unusual drink-dessert hybrid until you’ve guzzled one on a sweltering afternoon.
Location: In front of Hat Yai Railway station (next to Robinson’s parking lot)
Jay Hong Pork Noodles
A bowl of noodles served with chewy sausage made from pork tendon is a dish you can only find around Hat Yai. Complementing the flavor of the noodle and the pork tendon at Jay Hong Pork Noodles (daily: 06:00-16:00) are the little pieces of fried dough sprinkled on top. A popular variation is flat egg noodles served dry, paired with a bowl of hot soup on the side. Don’t forget to ask for some extra braised pork ribs to enhance the taste.