In 2021, the English south coast city of Brighton was hailed as the hippest city on Earth, and last year it was crowned the vegan capital of the world. Neither should come as a surprise.
Brighton has been a seaside resort for several hundred years – in fact, it was called “London by the Sea” in the 1700s because the who’s who of the capital would come here on holiday. That draw remains today, and many celebrities such as Noel Gallagher and Cate Blanchett have owned homes or lived in the city at some point in their lives.
But far from a snooty city, Brighton is a hotbed of indie culture and art, boasts a great bar scene and has the UK’s most vibrant LGBTQIA+ scene – not to mention thriving a beach life. Best part? It’s just an hour by train from central London, making it an easy hop on your next visit.
Here are our top spots to hit for shopping, dining and exploring in this cool city.
Attractions: Skyscrapers and Victorian architecture
The 18th-century Royal Pavilion is one of Britain’s most remarkable buildings. An eye-popping mash-up of Far East and Indian influences with lavish Georgian English panache, it was built for the Prince of Wales (soon-to-be King George IV) in the style of the British Raj, with domes and minarets drawing heavily from Mughal architecture.
Just south of this masterpiece, jutting into the ocean, you’ll find the Palace Pier, a centre of action since Victorian times. From here, ride east along the beach on the 140-year-old Volks Railway, the world’s oldest working electric railway. Then head west to the soaring i360 tower, where you can sip Champagne at the Nyetimber Sky Bar while drinking in the spectacular views.
Back at sea level, reflect on the skeletal ruins of the West Pier, destroyed by fire but left as a poignant memorial to beautiful decay.
Food: Vegans and vegetarians rejoice
After 30 years, gourmet vegetarian pioneer Terre a Terre still ranks among the UK’s best plant-based diners, while haute vegan newcomer Botanique offers seasonal, farm-driven cuisine in its cottage-like space by Brunswick Square.
Seafood lovers should check out the outstanding Riddle & Finns, which has two contrasting spaces – a pared-back hideaway in The Lanes and an expansive beachside restaurant. Buzzing nearby food market Shelter Hall, meanwhile, showcases a changing roster of seven local kitchens. It’s also a great place to watch the sunset.
On restaurant-lined Preston Street, Bincho Yakitori is an unfussy beacon of Asian sharing dishes (mainly Japanese and Korean). On Western Road, 20-seat diner Palmito centres the action around the charcoal grill, serving inventive, spice-driven sharing plates fusing South Asian and Latin American flavours.
For special occasion dining, don’t miss the multi-course set menu experiences at the intimate 64 Degrees, rustic The Set and chic Isaac At, which also serves great English wine.
Drink: Cabaret cocktails and pub crawl
The city with the highest concentration of bars in Britain naturally makes for a raucous pub crawl. Stumble into the Evening Star near Brighton Station and Hole In The Wall, tucked away up a seafront alley, but don’t miss out on Great Eastern and The Actors, which boast their own brilliant ambience.
Plush supper club-slash-cabaret the Proud Ballroom – in true Brighton-style, carved from a domed Victorian mausoleum in Kemptown. The artful Plotting Parlour and vintage-inspired L’Atelier du Vin, meanwhile, add stylish garnish to a mixology night out.
Culture: Live music gigs and historical theaters
Brighton’s theatre roots run deep at The Dome (fashioned from a former royal palace) and the ravishing Georgian jewel that is the Theatre Royal, which opened with Shakespeare’s Hamlet in 1807. For a more modern approach, check out the arts-club vibe and eclectic programme at the New Venture Theatre.
Movie buffs will love the gorgeous Duke of York’s, among the oldest cinemas in the world, dating to 1911. For more static visual treats, visit the Brighton Museum and Gallery opposite the Royal Pavilion, plus Phoenix by the green central strip known as Old Steine.
Brilliant small gig venues fuel an atmospheric and energetic music soundtrack to Brighton nights. Visit Resident Records to find out who’s playing at the Prince Albert, Hope & Ruin, Green Door Store, Chalk and Concorde 2 on any given night.
Shopping: All things vintage
It’s a controversial claim but, some argue Brighton offers better independent shopping than London. Hundreds of distinctive outlets form a fabulous compact centre. Step out of Brighton station and cut down Trafalgar Street to enter North Laine, an old Saxon word for the fields that stretched here over 1,000 years ago.
Today you won’t find fields but rather a dozen blocks of fantastic specialist shops, from retro men’s clothing outlet Jump The Gun and indie music mecca Resident Records to classy stationery brand Pen to Paper and kitsch shrine Black Out. Within a few hundred metres, you’ll find a who’s who of vintage design shops, including 90s-focused Snooper’s Paradise, furniture and décor specialist Era and Mid-Century treasure trove Gander.
Heading towards the sea, dart across busy North Street and dive into The Lanes – a medieval warren known for designer jewellers. Tucked away on a tiny alley off Ship Street, meanwhile, Hope and Harlequin ranks among the UK’s best shops for rare vintage fashion.
Festivals: From cosplay to cinema
May sees Brighton host England’s biggest arts festival, while August’s Pride is the UK’s premier LGBTQ+ celebration. The Early Music Festival brings historic sounds to October, while November’s CineCity film festival mixes small independent movies with previews of major new releases. A very-Brighton offering in July, meanwhile, is the surreal March of the Mermaids, when young and old alike cosplay as pirates, mermaids and more to raise funds for marine conservation.
Ready to embrace the hipster life in Brighton? Fly with Thai Airways to London.
