8 Italian-themed architectural treasures along the Chao Phraya

King Chulalongkorn or Rama V, who ruled Thailand (then called Siam) at the cusp of the 20th century, was known as the modernising monarch; a man ahead of his time. Under his reign, Italian-influenced architecture was at its zenith in the kingdom, and resulted in Bangkok being dubbed as the “Venice of the East.” 

At the time, the lives of Bangkok’s residents were mostly centred along the Chao Phraya River. Rama V and his successors employed and commissioned Italian architects to build grandiose public buildings and stately residences along the banks of the city’s main waterway — structures that still stand to this day.

If you take a boat along the river, you will see the Italian influence unfold in buildings that bear the mark of Renaissance and neoclassical styles. The stuccoed façades and dramatic columns carry the legacy of a visionary king. Here are some of the Italian-themed architectural treasures to look out for along the Chao Phraya.

1.Wat Rajathiwas

This ancient temple is known as the birthplace of the Dhammayutika, an order of Theravada Buddhist monks led by King Rama IV, father of King Chulalongkorn. When the son came into reign, Wat Raja was in disrepair so Rama V ordered the building’s reconstruction, which included decorating the temple’s ordination hall with frescoes. The paintings were done by Italian artist Carlo Rigoli, who was also responsible for painting the ceiling in the dome of the Ananta Samakhom Throne Hall. Rigoli’s murals depict scenes from the life of Phra Vessandara, the Buddha’s 10th reincarnation. 

2. Bang Khun Phrom Palace 

Built in 1906 for Prince Paribatra Sukhumbandhu, the 33rd child of King Rama V,  Bang Khun Phrom Palace is stately and elegant. Its intricately carved stucco façade, arched windows and majestic staircase are considered to be some of the most beautiful representations of Neo-Baroque architecture in Thailand. The palace was Turin native Mario Tamagno’s first project in Thailand, an impressive feat that prompted further commissions from the royal family, including the Ananta Samakhom Throne Hall and the Hua Lamphong Railway Station.

Prince Paribatra lived in the palace until 1932, when the Thai monarchy was overthrown in a revolution and the royal had to flee to Indonesia along with his family. The majestic home was then used for multiple purposes until it was rented out to Bank of Thailand in 1993. Today, the palace’s main mansion houses the bank’s museum, displaying the history of money in Thailand and the rest of Southeast Asia, from ancient currencies to coins to bank notes. But one room is dedicated to its former resident, and features an exhibit on the prince’s life and works.

3. Chakrabongse House

In the heart of Old Town Bangkok, just steps away from the Grand Palace and across from Wat Arun (Temple of Dawn), sits the formal royal retreat of Prince Chakrabongse Bhuvanath, said to be a favorite son of Rama V. Designed by Ercole Manfredi, who was known for fusing Venetian Gothic and modernist styles with traditional Thai aesthetics, in 1909, the house is relatively simple when compared to the other grand establishments the Italian architect built under royal commission. The original house is a two-story wooden structure with a tower, a front porch and a riverside pavilion. It’s now the private residence of the prince’s granddaughter Mom Rajawongse Narisa Chakrabongse, who transformed part of the grounds into an exquisite heritage hotel called Chakrabongse Villas. 

4. Santa Cruz Church 

This old church has been rebuilt three times since it was first erected by Portuguese settlers in 1770. Its latest incarnation was completed in 1916 by Mario Tamagno and Annibale Rigotti, both graduates of Turin’s Accademia Albertina, under the orders of King Vajiravudh or Rama VI, King Chulalongkorn’s son and successor. The present structure, recognized by its pink neoclassical dome, graceful arch, and stained glass windows, continues to welcome the few Catholics in Bangkok and, like many of the Catholic institutions around Southeast Asia, plays an important role in education. Two schools surround the church: Santa Cruz Suksa School and Santa Cruz Convent.

5. Siam Commercial Bank – Talad Noi branch 

The first branch of Thailand’s very first local bank is revered for its beautiful façade, elegant columns and gabled entrance, and is widely considered one of Bangkok’s finest examples of Beaux-arts and neoclassical architecture. The bank, founded by  Prince Mahisara Rachaharuthai (Rama V’s brother) and designed by Annibale Rigotti in 1910, remains well-preserved and still provides full banking services today. Visit the bank and you will see tellers doling out money from behind 100-year-old counters, plus a museum area exhibiting old bank accounts, turn-of-the-century accounting equipment, and a statue of the bank’s founder. 

6. Customs House 

Once one of Bangkok’s most impressive and important buildings, the old Customs House was built in 1888 in Neo-Palladian style by Joachim Grassi, one of the first European architects employed by King Chulalongkorn. It was the symbolic gateway to Bangkok that welcomed many foreign merchants entering the city, where taxes on inbound and outbound cargo were collected. It served this purpose until 1949 and was then used as a fire station for many years, progressively slipping into dilapidation. For some time it stood abandoned but remained a popular setting for pre-nup and movie shoots until 2019, until the Treasury Department, in partnership with U City Public Company Limited, announced plans to restore the old landmark and convert it into a luxury hotel. Restoration work is ongoing and for now it’s wrapped in scaffolding, but we can’t wait for its big unveiling slated for 2025.

7. The Mandarin Oriental 

One of Bangkok’s oldest and most popular landmark institutions began life as a luxury hotel under the ownership of Danish sailor and businessman Hans Niels Andersen. Who, in 1885, commissioned Stefanu Cardu to rebuild a former rest house for foreign seafarers into The Oriental Hotel. The Italian architect’s vision included beautifully carved arched windows, carpeted hallways, crystal chandeliers, and wallpaper imported from Paris. The original structure has been retained as the Mandarin Oriental’s Author’s Lounge, so named after some of the wing’s most illustrious guests, including writers John le Carré, W Somerset Maugham and Joseph Conrad. The lounge is a popular spot for afternoon tea among well-heeled guests, and a much-desired venue for weddings.

8. East Asiatic Office Building

A grand building with typical Renaissance revival embellishments, including a hipped roof, shutters and carved arches, the former headquarters of East Asiatic Company still bears the Danish trading house’s name and symbol. Sitting in neglected splendour next to the Mandarin Oriental, the building was designed by Annibale Rigotti in 1901 by commission of Hans Niel Andersen, the same gentleman owner of the former Oriental Hotel. It served as East Asiatic’s main office until 1995 and has been left empty since, only returning to its former glory when rented out for events and banquets, or advertising and film shoots.