We paddle our way through the calm Ao Thalane Bay, leaving behind the open waters of the Andaman Sea and venturing into the towering limestone cliffs that mark the entrance to a unique ecosystem. From the main branch of the channel, we follow a secondary path enclosed by two tall rock cliffs, standing like gateways to a magical world.
The fishing village of Ao Thalane, 30km south of Krabi town, sits at the mouth of a vast salty lake where the karst topography gives rise to cliffs, caves and sinkholes that emerge from lush mangrove forests. The best and most sustainable way to explore this intricate and changing network of waterways is undoubtedly on a kayak.
We enter a realm of dense mangrove forests, where all sounds from the real world drop away and there’s only silence, interrupted by the rhythmic music of our paddles breaking the water’s surface.
Suddenly, the canopy above seems to come alive. The mangroves sway and creak, and mysterious sounds grow closer and closer. A tiny face with a beard, almost human, peeks out from the foliage. Then another, and another. Before we know it, we are surrounded by agile monkeys leaping from branch to branch, their curious eyes locked on us. In our kayaks, we remain silent and motionless, captivated by the scene unfolding before us.
Marco, my boyfriend, fumbles behind me with the camera bag, eager to capture the moment. With my GoPro in hand, I brace myself for anything. Without warning, one of the monkeys leaps onto our kayak, landing right in front of me. We look into each other’s eyes, and I can see that I am much more intimidated than he is. They appear friendly, but I am all too aware of the sharp claws and teeth behind their playful demeanor.
The monkey explores our kayak, passing by me and examining my boyfriend, who snaps photos at lightning speed. He then returns to me, perches on my feet and grabs one of the plastic water bottles we inadvertently left lying out. Without even trying to unscrew the cap, he punctures the bottom with his teeth and greedily drinks its contents. The other monkeys seem to take this as a cue, and within moments, our kayak is swarmed by the little creatures, each snatching a bottle for themselves.
For what feels like an eternity but lasts only five minutes, I just observe and laugh at the surreal experience. And then, just as suddenly as they arrived, the monkeys vanish, their chattering receding into the distance, leaving behind shredded plastic bottles in our kayak.
More than rock climbing
For a long time, only one category of traveler has truly discovered Krabi as the adventure destination that it is: rock climbers. Thanks to the stunning limestone cliffs, Krabi’s towns such as Ao Nang, Ton Sai and Railey have served as basecamp for climbers of all skill levels.
For most other adventures, though, this southern province of Thailand has been overshadowed by Phuket, Samui and Phi Phi Islands in guidebooks and travelers’ tales. But it has a lot to offer: pristine beaches, dense jungle, impressive waterfalls and, at least so far, fewer tourists. Then there’s kayaking among the towering limestone cliffs and lush mangroves of Ao Thalane.
Preparing for a kayaking adventure
Kayaking in Ao Thalane is achievable for most experience levels. Many local operators such as Sea Kayak Krabi offer all-inclusive half and full-day guided tours. But for a true adventure, explorers such as Marco and me can opt to do a self-guided kayaking trip, where it’s just you, some paddles, a map and the emotions of being alone in a mangrove maze.
The experience can vary greatly depending on the tide level. With high tide, some caves may not be accessible, while low tide means shallow and narrow waterways, which are harder to navigate. Mid-tide is the perfect compromise to paddle deeper into the mangrove forest. Travelers need to be mindful that the tide changes quickly and the water you find at the beginning may not be the same when you return.
Most equipment can be rented, including single or double-seat kayaks, paddles, life vests and waterproof bags. Do remember to pack sunscreen, insect repellent and a hat to shield yourself from the sun. Kayaking in Ao Thalane is a very safe activity and the risk of capsizing is extremely low. Still, wear clothes and shoes that you don’t mind getting wet. Last but not least, bring plenty of water to stay hydrated – but keep it well hidden, along with any bag containing food, because, as Marco and I discovered, monkeys will dive for any scraps they see.
Navigating the spectacular landscape
Once you hit the water, you’ll be greeted by diverse landscapes, from a brackish lagoon and narrow canals with limestone cliffs to caves, beaches and mangroves. There isn’t just one route; there are different possibilities for exploring this landscape, depending on your mood and the tide.
We are following the classic itinerary, navigating counterclockwise through the mangrove forest, passing two tiny secluded beaches hidden between tall cliffs. Then we leave the main canal, enter a narrower waterway guided by towering karsts, with jagged rocks jutting out of the water and lush vegetation clinging to the cliffs. Here the water turns to an emerald-green shade, the current slows down and we start to really feel the silence and wilderness of the canyons.
We pass by smaller and larger caves, such as Crocodile Cave (don’t worry, there are no crocodiles in the area), and then turn to make our way through the mangrove forest maze. Here, trees grow in the brackish water, and their roots create an entanglement that we need to push our way out of with hands and paddles. In exchange for the effort, we are treated to a variety of creatures that live in this muddy ecosystem like crabs, mudskippers, lizards and fish.
A guide to monkey encounters
The true stars of Ao Thalane, however, are the local monkeys, specifically the long-tailed macaques, also known as crab-eating macaques. These monkeys, known for their curiosity and intelligence, are well-adapted to living in coastal and mangrove environments. They have even adapted to tourists carrying bags of food and, yes, water bottles.
As with any other wildlife, it’s essential to approach them with caution and respect. Avoid close interactions with them, and never feed them on purpose. These are wild animals that should look for their own food, and they could become aggressive. Everything on the kayak should be secured, including smartphones and cameras. Straps and waterproof cases are essential not only to protect them from water but also from the monkeys. Whatever happens, breathe, stay calm and avoid sudden movements or loud noises that may startle them.
And most of all: smile. You are having the experience of a lifetime. Krabi’s best secret adventure will stay with you long after you leave.
Ready to paddle your way through the mangroves of Krabi? Fly there with Thai Airways.
