Long-time restaurants that have survived the pandemic

Bangkok’s dining scene had been hard hit in the past two years, but thankfully, some of the most legendary restaurants in the industry have survived Covid. If you’re looking to avoid tourist traps in favor of truly authentic flavors and original atmosphere, here are some long-time, renowned names well-loved by Thai locals across different areas of the city. Our picks of both fancy fare and casual eateries have been around for no less than 30 years and still thrive as quaint, stand-alone establishments that have not expanded into cookie-cutter chains. We also asked their management to share tips on how they made it through the pandemic.

1. Vises Kaiyang Restaurant

This old name in the Bangsue district serves over 200 dishes of both Thai and Chinese variety. Sixty-eight years ago, the restaurant started out selling a few made-to-order dishes in a shophouse, but today, a dizzying amount of Chinese delicacies and Thai spicy salads and curries can be found on the menu. However, its not-to-be-missed menu item is clearly their grilled chicken — which makes part of the restaurant’s name ‘kaiyang’. There are two types of grilled chicken on offer. The first option is made up of soft chunks of meat and crisp chicken skin. The second, a free-range grilled chicken, features chewier chicken with less meat and gummy texture to nibble on.

Founded in 1954, Vises Kaiyang is popularly frequented by bureaucrats, members of the parliament, army men, and SCG (Siam Cement Group) office workers, due to its proximity to those offices within the area. Its pocket-friendly prices also make it a favorite go-to spot for large family gatherings and graduation celebrations. Although they’ve been hit hard during Covid just like every other restaurant, second-generation owner Saprangporn Chullasukhum is proud to share that not a single worker was laid off. “Our staff have been with us for a long time and we didn’t want to let anyone go,” she says. “It also takes a long time to train such personnel, before they can learn to cook the dishes to perfection.” Don’t get confused by the array of restaurants with ‘kaiyang’ in their name—there is only one legendary branch that is Vises Kaiyang.

Getting there: The restaurant is right on the steps of Bang Pho Station on the MRT. For reservations, call 02-585-0233.

2. Baan Khanitha Sathorn

This grand dame of authentic Thai food is impossible to miss on South Sathorn Road. Set in an elegant and charming Thai-style house, the sophisticated restaurant is one of the places in the CBD with a tuff of spacious green gardens, serving its three main offerings of authentic Thai cuisine, royal cuisine and ancient Thai cuisine. Literally translating to ‘Khanitha’s home’, the service is professional, but warm. Using only high-quality ingredients sourced from their own farms in Khao Yai and the iron rule of no MSG, the flavors in their dishes burst of impressive richness.

Don’t miss highlights such as chili paste dip with crispy catfish. During its 30 years in business, Baan Khanitha was largely known as a place to take your foreign visitors or corporate bigwigs to for a fancy meal. Following the onset of Covid, the original branch in Sukhumvit 23 is now closed permanently, as the land lease has coincidentally ended too. However, there’s good news within the bad news. “We have adjusted our pricing to be more affordable and now offer single dishes too,” reveals Vinth Soonthararak, the general manager. “We don’t want Thai customers to feel intimidated that this is an expensive restaurant that caters only to foreign expats.”

Getting there: Walking distance from Lumpini Station on MRT Blue Line or Chong Nonsri Station on BTS. For reservations, call 02-675-4200.

3. Ruen Petch Suki

Every Asian country’s gotta have one— their own way of enjoying hotpot that is. For Thais, a local name that has been doing traditional sukiyaki and Chinese food to much fanfare since 1968 is Ruen Petch Suki on New Phetchaburi Road. At this eatery, you’ll find Hainan-influenced suki with a clear broth, soya bean curd suki sauce and all the nine yards of fresh vegetables, seafood, dumplings and meat marinated with spices topped with an egg yolk ready to be boiled.

Despite the communal nature of having to eat around the pot of suki, the grandson of the founder, Oat Loetthanaphan, shares that luckily, Thais have long been ordering his restaurant’s sliced meat and vegetables to cook at home themselves even before Covid. “We used to be a typical Chinese restaurant, but in my generation, we’ve worked to standardize the recipe so not only the cook knows it. We’ve also started delivering before the pandemic, so that system was already in place when Covid happened.” If you aren’t looking to have your suki at a big, corporate chain, this is a great option for a more family-like service, with lots of other dishes too if you don’t feel like hotpot.

Getting there: 7-minute walk from Phetchaburi Station on MRT. For reservations, call 02-314-5047. 

4. Methavalai Sorndaeng

For a taste of some old-world refinement on Ratchadamnoen Avenue, check out Methavalai Sorndaeng. Besides the promise of traditional Thai flavors, you’ll also be dining with the lovely views of the Democracy Monument and Thai music from a live band daily. The venue may make you feel like attending a Thai couple’s wedding in the 70’s, but the food is fit for royalty— be it river prawns in chili paste or krathong tong (minced pork in crispy golden cups). The restaurant by the historical roundabout has been around since 1957. In 2019, they earned their first Michelin star and have been maintaining it ever since.

Long before the pandemic even arrived, the restaurant had been plagued by political protests every 2-3 years. This influenced second-generation owner and executive chef Jirawut Sapkiree to see the immense importance of saving up. “We’ve realized that it is so crucial to use money wisely and to always save some for times of crisis,” he shares. He also invites foreign visitors to be a tad more adventurous beyond the staple dishes. “Our pineapple fried rice and fried spring rolls is a favorite among tourists, but dishes like kaeng pa (jungle curry) or mee krob (crispy rice noodles in sweet and sour sauce) are just as delectable too.”

Getting there: Buses 15, 157, 171 and 509 run past Democracy Monument. For reservations, call 02-224-3088.

BONUS: Neil’s Tavern Restaurant & Bake Shoppe

Ever wondered where the Neil in Neil’s Tavern Restaurant & Bake Shoppe came from? The restaurant was named after Neil Armstrong because it opened the same year the American astronaut went to the moon in 1969. If you feel like grabbing Western cuisine, this old gem is set in the heart of the city right in the Ploenchit neighborhood. The founder had been a cook at another Western restaurant. He later decided to open his own steakhouse after mastering his cooking skills and seeing the potential of increased foreigners and embassies coming into Bangkok. As one of the first few stand-alone Western restaurants in the city, Neil’s was and still is a solid go-to for steak and seafood delicacies such as Phuket Lobster Thermidor.

Just as renowned is their bakery which came up in 1983. Selling a mouthwatering display of cakes and baked goods (their Viennese chocolate cake is an all-time popular favorite), third-generation owner Dreevit Pichanusakorn shares that the sales from the bake shoppe had helped keep the business afloat. “We’re also lucky that our restaurant in Ploenchit is our own land so we didn’t have to pay rent,” he says of getting through Covid. “It was tough because we are a fine dining establishment. Thankfully, 70% of our customers have always been Thai locals. The atmosphere is one of non-formal coziness, which makes it an ideal place for families and romantic dates too.”

Getting there: Walking distance from Phloenchit Station on BTS. For reservations, call 02-256-6874.