Rajadamnern Stadium enters a glossy new era

No matter which camp they come from, all boxers dream of competing at this institution. When it comes to boxing stadiums, it’s probably safe to say that Rajadamnern Stadium is the flashiest of them all. For fans of Muay Thai, a pilgrimage to this Thai boxing mecca is a must in Bangkok. And even if you don’t care to watch boxers lunge at each other, the gravitas of this building’s long history is enough to warrant a visit.

The Thai boxing tradition dates back to ancient Ayutthaya, but a standardized, national stage for the sport only came into existence in the last century. Rajadamnern Stadium’s inauguration at the end of WWII marks it as the first Muay Thai arena in the world to be elevated to internationally recognized sporting conventions.

Following the same Art Deco architectural style as other historical treasures, such as the Grand Postal Building, this stadium retains all of its classic aesthetics from 77 years ago. In a country where many heritage structures are usually bulldozed to make way for (sigh) another mall, this amphitheater is a true survivor. Other post-war arenas in the heart of Bangkok have all since folded, including the army-run Lumpini Boxing Stadium, another legendary boxing stage and Rajadamnern’s sole competitor, which was demolished in 2014 and has since relocated to the suburbs of Ram Intra.

That this old institution now sports a flashy, brightly lit facade akin to a Broadway theater — with a world-class lighting, sound and screen systems inside — is due to its recently formed partnership with Global Sport Ventures Co., Ltd. (GSV), which now owns 50 percent of Rajadamnern Stadium’s shares. GSV is a subsidiary of Plan B Media — Thailand’s largest billboard corporation — which explains the high-tech gloss that has finally arrived at the stadium. It feels strangely like attending a Blackpink concert.

But the young management behind these revamps are changing more than just the surface. Thainchai Pisitwuttinan, the CEO of GSV, is well acquainted with the world of Muay Thai. The son of a former boxer and founder of Nakornloung Boxing Promotion, Thainchai himself had previously helped his father out as a boxing promoter since he was in high school. He intends to push Rajadamnern Stadium to be on par with Madison Square Garden, with hopes to make Thai boxing more entertaining and appealing to a new crowd.
 
He fondly recalls his own experience at the world’s most famous arena: “I still remember every feeling I had as I walked Sisaket Sor Rungvisai (boxer under Nakornloung Boxing Promotion and two-time world champion of World Boxing Council) into Madison Square Garden for his world championship fight. It’s been many years since then, but boxing can give you a feeling that no other sport or entertainment can.” 

Recently launched this year, Rajadamnern World Series (RWS) is Thainchai’s attempt at elevating Muay Thai to global appeal and standards. The league tackles a few pain points the Thai boxing industry has long faced, from questionable judging or lack of continuity. Typically, different promoters usually do their own thing separately, but RWS has managed to bring the three biggest boxing promoters — Petchyindee, Kiatpetch and Sor Sommai — to work together. Boxers from different camps rarely compete with each other, but now, the biggest stars and best fighters from all around the world from each of the five weight classes will be pitted against each other, in search of champions who will win one million baht.

This new league, akin to how a soccer league functions, gives fans something to follow every Friday, as opposed to traditional matches that usually end within each night. While normal matches usually lasted five rounds of three minutes each, RWS has shortened each match to three rounds, while also placing scoring emphasis on knocking out the opponent (no more question about who’s winning there). Another game-changing move is the installation of a scoring screen that instantly reveals each boxers’ score at the end of each round. Previously, scores were only revealed at the end of each match, but this attempt at transparent scoring now gives boxers a nudge to up their game if they know they are falling behind.

What’s most striking, however, is the stadium’s intent to usher in a new age of equality. In all its 77 years in operation, women have never been allowed to compete due to archaic superstitions (heck, women got told off for even touching the boxing ring). Now, RWS will feature women’s competitions, with the champions winning one million baht, just like their male counterparts, closing up the gender pay gap. Competitions are currently ongoing until the yearend, with the first-ever title champions to be announced by the end of December.

Fitted with all this lighting extravaganza and groundbreaking match structures, it really does look like the new, unrecognizable dawn of Muay Thai. Boxers now make their entrance to a Bruno Mars earworm, but fret not — the live, traditional Thai music that plays during the match is still very much part of the games. If you’re looking for a more raw and local feel, visit on Wednesday, Thursday or Sunday for the traditional five-round matches. You’ll find yelling old uncles and legal betting in action. On Monday and Saturday, entertaining matches between Thai fighters are geared towards a more touristy crowd.

Tickets start at THB 1,000 for the third floor, while ringside seats will cost you THB 2,000. If you’re wondering whether watching at the stadium is really that different from watching on TV, there are two experiences worth making the trek for. You might end up on the stadium’s kiss cam/ dance cam/ bottoms up cam, thanks to their newly installed screen. But it’s the thrilling sounds of whacks and smacks during combat that will make even the most indifferent of viewers wince. And up close, there’s nothing more charming than to see the boxers display the tradition of wai kru, or paying respect to teachers, or hugging it out at the end. There’s no other sport in the world where athletes do so.

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