Savor the slow life at these old-school cafés in Lamphun

Just 20km south of Chiang Mai, Lamphun is a storied town packed with understated charm. It began as a vibrant Mon queendom and a bastion of culture in the north before the Lanna kingdom absorbed it in the 12th century.

These days, besides the imposing Tha Nang Gate, old city wall remnants and the sculptures of Wat Phra That Hariphunchai, little of Lamphun’s ancient art remains. Much of what you see reflects the town’s more recent heritage, from 20th-century mansions inspired by nearby former European colonies to post-war Thai modernist shophouses.

This makes Lamphun a distinctly low-rise city, and a joy for pedestrians. Yet, there are scarcely any tourists, especially when compared with bustling Chiang Mai to the north. That’s due to Lamphun’s lowkey demeanor, rather than any lack of visitor appeal. “Life is slow-paced, the weather is good and there are a handful of heritage buildings, family-owned restaurants and independent shops,” says Lamphun native Thanchira “Fah” Thananonkhantachai, the co-owner of Aq Bur Old Town. 

Aq Bur is one of four cafés that have taken over decades-old buildings along Inthayongyot Road, which runs through the center of town. Together, they’ve transformed the thoroughfare into a highly visitable pit stop with cold drinks and sweet treats. Although the temple complex and city walls provide more than enough intrigue to fill an afternoon in Lamphun, a visit to these cafés sweetens the deal.

Gaze at lofty stupas from Temple House

A café and an art gallery right in the center of town, Temple House offers near-panoramic views of Wat Phra That Hariphunchai thanks to the glass window grid at the front of the building. Order a slice of house made deliciousness – including flavoured cheesecakes and fruit tarts – before settling in a colorful and comfy seat and taking in the view. When you’re finished, climb the wooden staircase to the upper floor, which has even more natural light, creaky wooden floorboards and an eclectic exhibition schedule that fronts local artists.

Sip on fruity creations at Yann Slow Bar Café

After taking some time to reflect at Wat Phra That Hariphunchai and circling the golden stupa three times (as is the custom), slip into Yann, which is just around the corner. Wandering into this upper-floor café is like chancing upon a secret, as you skirt around the barber, duck into an alleyway, pass a mom-and-pop noodle joint, climb a creaky staircase and enter through a rooftop terrace. The street-facing windows bathe the space in natural light, while a pair of doors lead to a bar-like balcony from which you can peer at the handsome modernist shophouses opposite. Despite the architectural intrigue, Yann’s standout feature may be its creative and refreshing menu, which includes lychee coffee, orange Thai tea and a caffeine-free mango latte. 

Satisfy your sugar cravings at Aq Bur Old Town

Aq Bur Old Town opened in 2022 in a grand honey-coloured building from the 1950s close to the Tha Nang Gate, Lamphun’s most impressive ancient city wall remnant. Menu highlights include coconut latte, pork shabu with rice and a healthy selection of superb desserts, making Aq Bur another place to come to indulge your sweet tooth. The in-house baker tries to use only local ingredients for all of their desserts, with different menus available each day. If you’re lucky and it’s available, try the carrot cake. 

Knock back an ethically-sourced coffee at S’kov

With mismatched seating, corkboard walls and a plant-strewn back garden, S’kov looks as if it was thrown together in a hurry. But you’ll sense the unpretentious charm from this spot right across the street from Aq Bur Old Town, especially once greeted by the smiley and skilled baristas behind the coffee bar. S’kov, which means friend in the Karen language, is serious about coffee. They serve beans from Pa’Ka, a company which works with highland ethnic minority farmers, including the Karen and Akha peoples. For something especially refreshing, try the Papea Drip Lime, a pourover local blend combined with fresh lime and syrup. Sit at the bar and watch the baristas work their magic, settle into a comfy lounge chair or sit by the window and gaze at the handsome façade of the building opposite. If you like the coffee, buy a bag of Pa’Ka to take home.  

Ready for a taste of Lamphun? Fly directly to Chiang Mai with Thai Airways and Thai Smile Airways.