An outdoorsy escape to Luang Prabang: Unplug and unwind in northern Laos

Before you land at Luang Prabang International Airport, the descent into the valley –  threading through the dramatic mountains – will serve as notice that this is no ordinary weekend getaway. Twenty minutes’ drive away, the streetscapes of the old town beckon, an embarrassment of riches that time-travels through the city’s multi-layered history, now a heritage destination to rival – even outclass – other Unesco World Heritage-listed towns in the region like Hoi An in Vietnam or George Town in Malaysia. And while Luang Prabang’s compact center holds myriad wonders, touring its rural periphery is just as rewarding.

So start the weekend by soaking up the laid-back ambience of this utterly unspoilt town – which holds a dazzling range of world-class hotels – before venturing further out. The pursuit of simple pleasures here yields rich dividends: a gentle ascent to the peak of Mount Phousi showcases all the key sights in one widescreen panorama, a dreamlike watercolor of old Indochina. Absorb the sweeping vision of the town’s unparalleled Franco-Lao vernacular architecture, slotted in between dozens of ornate boutiques, pagodas and temples – all immaculately bookended by the sleepy Nam Khan and Mekong rivers. Make time for the sublime 16th-century Wat Xieng Thong monastery a few blocks away, venue for many royal coronations in centuries past.

Explore the markets and restaurants

It’s a short walk from Mount Phousi to one of Asia’s biggest and best night markets. Every evening, vendors – largely from the sizeable Hmong ethnic group – line the principal thoroughfare named for a former king, Sisavangvong Road, to sell handicraft artefacts (textiles, ceramics, even ornaments recycled from “Secret War” bombs), as well as food staples such as fish and vegetables.

A calm atmosphere prevails despite the market’s size, but even greater rewards await at the end of the street, where a plethora of locally run restaurants line up to tempt travelers’ taste buds. In this gorgeously romantic setting, Lao favorites – often plant- and herb-based – are re-imagined at casual-yet-classy diners like vegan-friendly Bouang (Lao for “spoon”), whose dishes are as colorful and inventive as its interiors.

As the new day dawns, rise early and make for Ock Pop Tok Living Crafts Centre, with a breakfast view on a porch overlooking the Mekong. You’ll see this women-run co-operative’s name at chic boutiques all around town: it’s the standard-bearer for the time-honored crafts of textile weaving and dyeing, and here you can meet the artisans, observe their delicate work happening in real time – producing unmistakably Lao garments with vivid patterns and colors – and kick back in the tropical garden. 

Take a hike

Try booking early at Tiger Trail Travel for the cross-country walk to Kuang Si Falls, one of the most multi-faceted and spectacular hikes in Asia. Accompanied by a local Hmong guide, the journey starts high up in the hills towering over Luang Prabang, at an ethnic village populated by Khamu and Hmong settlers – all thatched roofs and hardscrabble living under the baking sun. 

Along golden-russet dirt paths and forest canopies, unexpected sights will suddenly come into view: lofty trees the color of beetroot, hunters hoisting a pheasant on wooden poles, tiny shrines hidden in a jungle-y thicket and vast clearings suddenly revealed, eliciting audible gasps.

A few hours into the trek, hikers arrive at swampland perched on a clifftop and filled with translucent water; after descending a steep staircase, behold Kuang Si Falls, a miraculous vision of turquoise and a photographer’s dream. Not merely one waterfall, the site cascades down along both deep and shallow pools covering three tiers – some filled with day-trip paddlers – allowing multiple perspectives of the sprawling beauty spot. On the final stretch, down towards street level, stop at Tat Kuang Si Bear Rescue Centre, a heartwarming sanctuary for adorable sun bears saved from poachers who’d intended to sell their bile or body parts to the traditional Chinese medicine trade. 

Spend time along the river

Back in town, traverse the sturdy Bamboo Bridge outside the Apsara Hotel over the Nam Khan, where further surprises lie in wait. On the riverbanks, vendors purvey amber-hued lao-lao whiskey, a popular spirit; some also sell bottles containing a scorpion, or “snake whiskey” – rice wine containing an unfortunate drowned cobra. Further into the village, tailoring businesses operate from their homes, incorporating indigenous fabrics in their clothing. Commerce reaches the most secluded parts of this city, yet merchants remain a model of gentle discretion; it’s the least aggressive trading culture you could possibly imagine. 

Round off your Laos weekend in style with Khopfa Mekong Cruise’s sunset sailboat swansong. Here, you can take in the captivating scenery of downtown Luang Prabang at dusk along the wide-open river; weekend departures now last two hours, offering film screenings with cocktails and tapas. Embarking at the Belle Rive Boutique Hotel’s boat pier, everything is set here for maximum comfort, from the viewing terraces to the lounges and massage armchairs. Much like the rest of Luang Prabang – luxurious, stylish and intimate – Khopfa makes hospitality look easy, and this is one ex-royal capital that’s welcomed the world yet lost none of its luster.

Ready for an escape to Luang Prabang? Fly directly with Thai Smile Airways.