Artsy things to do in Ubud: Discover the art capital of Bali in a weekend

From the moss-speckled statues and intricate Hindu offerings to the carved flourishes on wooden furniture, artistry abounds in Ubud. Once a collection of quiet villages with an eclectic creative scene that drew painters, writers and filmmakers from faraway lands, it was established as a cultural center in the 1930s. Almost a century later, multiple museums house vast collections of works by Bali’s most influential artists while traditional dance and music are performed nightly. But although Ubud is world renowned for its customary arts, a kaleidoscopic array of contemporary creations is produced by locals and foreigners who call the town home, and with major events on the calendar, October is the ideal time to visit for an inspiring art-filled weekend.

One of the best ways to get to know a place is to walk its streets, which makes joining a walking tour led by Ubud Story Walks one of the best ways to get to know Ubud. Starting in the cool of the early morning, the mile-long meander takes in Bali’s oldest art museum and the home of its most revered artist, I Gusti Nyoman Lempad. A prolific stone sculptor, architect and painter who is said to have died at the age of 116, many of Ubud’s most distinctive landmarks and the artistic styles of younger generations across the island echo his enduring legacy.

A three-minute stroll from Lempad’s house is the home of some of Bali’s best coffee: Seniman, which means “artist” in Indonesian. The name isn’t just reflected in the cups of arabica and robusta they harvest, process, and roast themselves; the café is bristling with the quirky and playful design aesthetic of its founder Rodney Glick, an Australian sculptor. From its groundbreaking Indonesian Coffee Flavor Wheel to its vibrant wooden sticks on which drinks are served, Seniman is at the vanguard of both coffee and café decor in the region.

If at lunchtime you’re keen on consuming art along with an unforgettable meal, head to Locavore (though be sure to book ahead). The country’s only entrant on the Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants list, chef-owners Eelke Plasmeijer and Ray Adriansyah have redefined what it means to use Indonesian-only ingredients for fine dining at their small and unassuming restaurant — but they’ve got bigger things in sight.

The restaurant is moving to a new spot, and as a farewell to the current location, the team is plating its favorite 50 dishes from nine years of Locavore history over three menus. To preserve these culinary memories, local artists have interpreted each dish in a variety of mediums — from polymer clay to water buffalo hide — transforming the space into a quintessentially Locavore experience.

Permanent exhibition spaces are part of several local restaurants, including Indus, which has the most spectacular view in central Ubud. The works of emerging and established Balinese artists adorn the walls of this Ubud institution, with the mesmerizing linocut scenes of Ni Luh Pangestu scheduled for October 2022. After more than 20 years of serving local specialties, Indus has shifted its menu to modern Asian dishes such as lobster udon and eggplant kushiyaki, which are plated on exquisite ceramics by Tanah Pottery.

Interested in honing your skills or picking up new ones? Myriad opportunities to don a smock and get your hands dirty await. Indonesia’s best-equipped printmaking facility, Black Hand Gang, is running workshops throughout the month, including cyanotype, photo intaglio, and Japanese embroidery. At its architecturally unique “Temple of Print” (a Javanese joglo perched atop six shipping containers), you’ll find signed, numbered, hand-pulled reproductions of works by some of the nation’s most prominent contemporary artists, such as Agus Suwage and Bali’s own Kuncir Sathya Viku.

At the more traditional end of the spectrum, breathe in the botanical, earthy scent of natural dyes at Threads of Life, which offers hands-on batik making classes that delve deep into indigo dying and the astonishingly rich textile traditions of the archipelago.

From October 14-15 2022, the inaugural Ubud Open Studios from creative events agency Elami and Co. Productions will throw open the doors of 50 private studios, where painters, illustrators, interior designers, photographers, ceramicists, glass blowers, leatherworkers, weavers, costume makers, carvers and more will reveal their techniques, processes and philosophies. This innovative event will be Ubud’s biggest and most diverse celebration of contemporary art to date, with discussions, demonstrations, workshops and exhibitions from which you can tailor your experience according to your creative tastes.

After two years of online and hybrid programming due to the pandemic, this month also heralds the return of one of Southeast Asia’s leading literature and arts events. In its 19th year, Ubud Writers & Readers Festival will bring together over 100 writers, artists, activists and performers from across Indonesia and the world from October 27-30. The festival’s founder and director, Janet DeNeefe, said she’s thrilled the festival can finally take place in person, “so we can engage on a deeper level.”

Finally, the Setia Darma House of Masks and Puppets is not to be missed. The mind-boggling collection features over 1,300 masks and 5,700 wayang (shadow puppets), and with a set of wayang characters imitating Indonesian politicians, it’s a delightful blend of old and new. So, who’s ready for an artsy weekend in Ubud?

Ready for a weekend in Ubud? Fly directly to Denpasar with Thai Airways.