Why Southern Thailand is a must for rock climbers

Stumbling accidentally upon a rather deserted Tonsai Beach many moons ago, I watched in awe as the sunset bathed the rock face of Tonsai Wall in a tangerine glow. High up on the rock face were the tiny figures of adventurous folk, harnessed in ropes, scaling the heights and stalactites. Had I known then how physically, mentally, emotionally and spiritually engaging climbing is, I’d definitely have gotten to grips with real rock much sooner.

While one could certainly laze away hours on the secluded, idyllic beaches of Krabi in Southern Thailand, the siren call that’s lured large numbers of visitors to the province for decades has been more adrenaline fueled: rock climbing.

Krabi is a jaw-dropping paradise that’s also renowned as a world-class climbing spot. It’s home to a number of epic climbing crags, including the famous Railay and Tonsai areas, where there are many hundreds of routes, all within about a 30-minute walk of each other. And you don’t need to turn up fully kitted out or with a climbing partner – full gear rental and professional guides are readily available whether you are trying it out or going all out.

Isolated from the mainland by a mountainous border, a boat is needed to gain access to Pranang Peninsula. The Peninsula includes East Railay, Pranang Cave Beach, West Railay and Tonsai. You most certainly do not have to be a climber to love this setting – there’s plenty to do and discover for any non-climbing travel companions. From hiking to view points and a hidden lagoon, kayaking, island-hopping, standup paddle boarding and slack-lining, the list is endless.

Yet, it is unequivocally a climber’s mecca, ideal for everyone from novice climbers to pros. And those who chalk up are rewarded with the very best views. Climbers make pilgrimages to Krabi all year-round, spending days, weeks and even months ascending the rocks and challenging themselves to ever-harder routes.

Despite the seclusion, it is an easy place to reach. With an international airport, and regular 1 hour and 20 minute flights from Bangkok, Krabi is a no-brainer for an adventurous trip, even just for the weekend. Grab a cab from the airport to Ao Nammao pier, and from there, a 10-15 minute longtail boat ride will take you to a climbers’ happy place.

Every level of accommodation is available, from the uber-luxurious villas of Rayavadee, popular with the hi-so crowd, to shoestring dorms and tents for the budget backpacker. Whether you prefer the chilled vibe and more challenging climbs at Tonsai, or the wider selection of activities, shops, bars, restaurants and better WiFi in Railay, the choice is yours.

In East Railay, which has glorious sunrises, I like to stay at Bhu Nga Thani Resort or Avatar Railay. They’re next door to each other and close to Spider Rock Climbing, which is the only climbing shoe repair currently in Thailand (approx. 1,600 baht/pair). In Tonsai, stay at Tinidee Hideaway or Dream Valley, but be sure to catch the epic sunsets on West Railay.

Krabi’s climbing is incredibly well maintained. Old steel bolts on most routes have been replaced with durable titanium and marine glue, while slings and anchors are regularly swapped out, thanks to the hard work of locals and the much-appreciated donations from visiting climbers. Although danger is inherent in all extreme outdoor sports, great lengths are taken to minimize the risks here.

Railay boasts many climbing shops with professional English- and Thai-speaking guides for all levels. Railay Rock Climbing Shop can show you the ropes and coach you along tougher routes to push your limits. One of the best and most joyful guides is Mee, whose passion for the sport is infectious. At the Rock Shop in Tonsai, ask for Hari – he practically grew up on the rocks there and can always be found climbing, even when not working.

If you’re not looking for a guide, find a climbing partner on the beach. Then, check out thecrag.com to work out where to climb, according to the time and tide. Beach, jungle, headland, inland, over water – you can find places to climb in the shade all day long, rain or shine, as massive overhangs shelter many areas, such as Pranang Cave.

Easier climbing (grade 5/under 5.10a) for beginners is almost exclusively in Railay. 123 Wall, Muay Thai, Diamond Cave Wall, Pranang Cave Beach, and Thaiwand Wall, for example, have a broad range of climbing levels. The most demanding climbs (up to 8c+/5.14c ‘Greed’) are found in Tonsai.

Accessing the Bat Cave from Pranang Beach and rappelling down to Thaiwand Wall is an absolute must for first-timers. Don’t forget your headlamp – it gets pitch black in there. From Thaiwand Wall, you can see all the way to Tonsai and West Railay. The higher up you go, the better that view gets. After climbing there, head back through the jungle, via Wee’s Present Wall, which has crazy tufa rock formations to climb.

In Tonsai, climb beachside at Dum’s Kitchen in the morning, or Missing Snow on Tyrolean Wall, on the headland. Start early on Humanality, which is a fantastic 6-pitch climb (up to 6b+/5.10d) that allows you to descend before the sun hits. Then, either take shelter under Tonsai Roof and grab a drink at Freedom Bar, or walk over to the far side and try the iconic Groovetube multipitch (6a-6b/5.10a-5.10c), with its tunnel start, and Boobtube (6b/5.10c), with its cool moves, both on Fire Wall.

The area is a hotspot for sport climbing with ropes, but also has plenty of bouldering (Temple Cave and on the beaches) and some traditional options. Remember, you’re also just a boat ride away from Krabi mainland. The amazing crags, like North Wall and Chong Phli (Spirit Mountain), are being continually developed there, so climb on!

Ready for an adventure in Krabi? Fly directly to Krabi with Thai Airways and Thai Smile Airways.