Khao soi — a fragrant and fiery coconut curry and noodle soup served with fermented pickles, fresh shallots and a dollop of crushed, roasted chilies — is not indigenous to Chiang Mai, but that doesn’t stop the Thai city from laying claim to it.
Khao soi is believed to have originated among Chinese Muslim communities in southern China. The dish crossed the border into Myanmar, where Shan communities adapted the recipe oh no khao swe. Like the original dish, the Shan version uses rice noodles — in fact, khao swe means “cut rice”. Northern Thailand got its first taste of the noodle curry around the 19th century, and the dish adapted yet again. Handmade boiled egg noodles replaced rice noodles, and local red curry paste gave the coconut base a spicy kick. With its piquant and hearty flavours and quick preparation, Chiang Mai khao soi quickly took off as the city’s go-to breakfast and lunch dish.
A typical bowl starts with a pile of hand-cut, boiled egg noodles. A light, creamy coconut and red curry paste broth is ladled on top, along with your choice of stewed chicken or beef (because of its roots, pork is rarely used). The bowl is garnished with fried egg noodles and accompanied by small plates of pickled onions, fresh shallots, lime and roasted chillies.
Cruising the city in search of the best bowl is a pastime among locals and visitors alike. We’ve rounded up six of our favorites (one for every day of your weeklong Chiang Mai holiday), but we also recommend you be adventurous — this dish is always evolving, and the best bowls are often in low-profile, humble, family-run spots.
Khao So-i
Khao So-i, a slightly upscale spot burst onto the scene mid-pandemic, and its Japanese-inspired khao soi is worth lining up for. The Thai owners elevate the dish with handcrafted, top-shelf ingredients, not to mention impeccable presentation. Bowls with braised beef are a big hit, as is the non-traditional and intriguing ‘fried khao soy’, served without the broth. 430/1 Charoen Rat Road; +66 61 515 4529
Khao Soi Prince
The torchbearer for the original, this joint tops many lists. The slightly watery coconut broth crackles with chilies and dried spices. Tangy and fragrant on its own, but better if you add the pickled mustard greens and lime zest. Both beef and chicken versions are available at Khao Soi Prince. Off Route 1367; +66 89 435 3991
Khao Soy Lung Prakit Kad Kom
Known affectionately as “Khao Soi Netflix”, this 40-year old spot skyrocketed to fame following an appearance on the streaming platform. Michelin Guide Thailand pegged its creamy coconut broth, firm noodles and crisp toppings as near perfect. 53 Suriyawong 5 Road, Hai Ya; +66 83 209 9441
Khao Soi Lamduan Fa-Ham
Locals contend this outpost on the Ping River serves Chiang Mai’s best khao soi — long before it scored a Michelin Guide mention. The soup at Khao Soi Lamduan Fa-Ham is bright yellow and laced with piquant, eye-watering red curry, and comes with your choice of beef or chicken. 352/22 Thanon Charoenrat; +66 53 243 519
Khao Soi Islam
Tucked in a small alley practically under the minarets of Masjid Hidayatul near the Night Bazaar, this halal shop peddles a mild and lightly seasoned version that resembles the Burmese oh no khao swe. Soi 1, Thanon Charoen Prathet; +66 82 392 0142
Khao Soi Mae Manee
The chefs in Khao Soi Mae Manee — a homey kitchen — assemble bowls of beef khao soi at lightning speed, keeping the hungry lines moving. Consistently good, with the creamy coconut broth perfectly calibrated for heat level and tanginess. 18 Soi 24 Chotana Road; +66 81 806 7127
Goodsouls Kitchen
At vegan spot Goodsouls Kitchen, tofu and potato stand in for chicken and beef in Chiang Mai’s famous dish. 52/2 Singharat Road
